I’ll never forget the moment I walked out of the Pasaje de Peña tunnel and saw the white and tan European apartment buildings on Calle de Jesús del Monasterio in Santander’s city center.
Right then, I fell hopelessly in love with this moody, posh, green city on Spain’s Northern coast. For the following 6 months, Santander was home. And despite the rain and cloudy days, this unique place captured my heart again and again.
That was 8 years ago, and though I’ve moved to a sunnier side of Spain, Santander will always have a special place in my heart.
This past weekend, we were back in Santander for the second time this year—a surprise weekend trip that was filled with food, friends, and fun.
This time, we rented a car and drove to different beaches along Spain’s northern coast—which was incredible! More on that later…
This is everything I ate during a quick weekend trip to Santander, Spain (and my unfiltered opinion about all of it), so you can find the best, most authentic eats on your next trip to this magical city.
Cantabria’s Most Famous Dish: Cocido montañés
If you’re visiting Northern Spain for the first time, don’t expect paella. Sure, you can find a paella or two, but it’s just not the palace (this dish originated on the other side of the country, in Valencia).
Northern Spain’s cuisine is much richer and heartier. Here, you can enjoy a variety of quesos (cheeses), stews, pintxos (the Basque Country’s version of tapas), and must-try seafood dishes like rabas (fried squid) and pulpo a la gallega (Galician octopus).
The cocido montañés is Cantabria’s most famous stew. This hearty dish is made up of white beans, collard greens, tender pork, and two different types of sausage: morcilla, blood sausage and chorizo, pork sausage. It’s filling and warm—perfect for the typical chilly and raining days in Santander.
What is Cantabria?
Cantabria is a region on Spain’s northern coast that’s home to the city of Santander. Spain is divided into 17 comunidades autónomas, or independent regions (like states or provinces)—and Cantabria is one of them.
Even though I lived in Santander for six months and have been back to visit multiple times, I hadn’t tried this dish until last weekend.
And…I’ll be honest, I wasn’t super impressed. The beans were good and the pork was very tender and flavorful, but I just couldn’t get past the collard greens (which I’ve never been particularly fond of).
Where to try it: Bodega Fuente De, this traditional Spanish bar is a local favorite with unbeatable prices. The cocido montañés costs just €12, making it one of the cheapest in the city (as of September 2026).
Who it’s for: Bean fans and stew-lovers looking for an authentic Cantabrian dish.
What to know: At Bodega Fuente De, the cocido montañés dish is served in a huge metal basin with a giant ladle. It’s big enough to feed two people; I simply couldn’t finish it all.
For Cheese Lovers: Queso Picón
For me, the dish that stole the show at Bodega Fuente De was actually the queso picón, an intensely-flavored blue cheese from Cantabria.
It’s meant to be spread on slices of crunchy, freshly-baked baguette bread, so that’s exactly what we did. And boy was it delicious. Salty, potent, and uniquely blue cheese. I definitely recommend you try this the next time you’re in Cantabria.
Where to try it: Again, Bodega Fuente De, this is a great option for affordable and authentic Northern dishes. The half-portion picón costs just €4.50.
Who it’s for: Blue cheese fans and people who like intensely-flavored cheeses.
What to know: At Bodega Fuente De, the picón comes in two sizes, ½ portion and full portion. For 2-3 people, the ½ portion is plenty; my husband and I couldn’t finish it all.
The Famous Ice Cream Shop: Regma
Santander is home to many fantastic heladerías (ice cream shops), but this one is the most famous. This family run business has been delighting ice cream lovers with giant scoops of quality, affordable ice cream since 1933.
You can find Regma’s ice cream shops all over Cantabria. My favorite flavors here are strawberry, cheesecake, lemon, and hazelnut. This is such a nostalgic treat for me—many an afternoon during my time in Santander was spent walking around enjoying a delicious Regma ice cream cone.
Where to try it: If you’re in the center of Santander, this location is always popular. If you’re by Sardinero beach, try this location.
Price for a small cone: €3.50
What to know: The portions are huge! The one pictured above is a small scoop with two flavors.
My Favorite Breakfast Stop: La Gallofa & Co
Another nostalgic favorite with a ton of great breakfast and brunch options, La Gallofa & Co is the perfect spot to start your day. This company has cute little cafes scattered all across the city, and it’s a popular spot to come enjoy a quick bite.
When in Spain, fresh-squeezed orange juice for breakfast is a MUST. Plus, the quality of this tortilla de patata was a delightful surprise—in fact, it might just be one of the best I’ve ever had.
Where to find them: In the city center, this location and this location are my favorites.
What to order: Jamón y Queso Tortilla de Patata—this Spanish omelet with ham and cheese is always so good. Orange juice, of course. The croissants, donuts, and filled donut holes are also fantastic. You really can’t go wrong.
Average price: €5-10 per person
A Burger Stop: Carniball Smash Burger
I’m almost always in the mood for a burger, and this spot did not disappoint. Carniball has fantastic smashburger creations that will make you want to move to Santander and stay forever!
Where to find it: They have two locations in Santander, one right next to the famous Plaza de Cañadío and another not too far away on Calle Alonso Ercilla.
What we ordered: La Bastarda—a burger with BBQ brisket, Havarti cheese, and house sauce (the winner of the 2025 Champion’s Burger!)—and the Air Jordan—a smash burger with Monterrey Jack cheese, a fried egg, and truffle mayo.
Total: €10-20
Festival de Las Naciones—Santander: An International Food Festival
Spain is home to more than 10 million migrants (one in five people who live in Spain were not born there)! This impressive diversity makes Spain one of the best places to try food from *literally* all over the world.
We were lucky to be in Santander during the one-month Festival de Las Naciones, a cultural festival with food, drinks, music, and dancing. We tried the Colombia and Costa Rica stands and they were both fantastic. The food is authentic and high-quality (though at some stands, a little overpriced).
What is it: A month-long cultural festival with food, drinks, music, and cultural presentations. It usually begins mid-August and lasts into September.
What to order: We tried empanadas, buñuelos, and agua panela from the Colombia stand. Plus, a new (to me!) dish from Costa Rica called Casado: flavorful chicken with rice and beans, sweet fried plantains, and a fresh salad. Paired with their traditional drink, agua de sapo (a sweet ginger lemonade), it was delicious!
Average price: €15-20
Things to Do in (and Near) Santander, Spain
The north of Spain is breathtakingly beautiful and surprisingly underhyped. It gives off mini-Alps vibes, but without the price tag. Plus, there are a ton of fun things to do. During your time in Santander, make sure you:
Explore the parks surrounding Palacio de la Magdalena. This area is a must-see if you’re in Santander. This islet is home to a beautiful palace (where Gran Hotel, a Spanish TV series, was filmed), a free outdoor aquarium, beaches, and vibrant green forests. It’s free to explore and a great activity for kids!
Enjoy the incredible beaches! Here in the north of Spain the water is cold, but the beaches are truly incredible. Near the city center, make sure to visit El Sardinero, Playa del Camello, and Playa de La Magdalena. Not to far outside of the city center, Playa de Covachos and Playa Arnía are also fantastic beaches (though they both require a bit of walking).
Visit Gaudi’s hidden work of art in Comillas. This day tour takes you to a few adorable villages in Cantabria, one of the few Gaudi works outside of Barcelona, and to a stunning redwood forest.
Do a pintxo tour in Bilbao! Pintxos are Northern Spain’s version of tapas (but they’re 10x more elegant, tasty, and memorable, IMO). Get all the details for the best pintxos in Bilbao in my guide here.
Hike San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (aka: Dragonstone) in Bilbao, Spain. This iconic hike is a must-do for Game of Thrones fans and nature-lovers alike. With incredible views of the beautiful Basque Country, a rugged rocky coastline, and the green forests of the north, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a hike you won’t forget.